My Controversial Skin Ingredients for Teens

My Controversial Skin Ingredients for Teens

7 Jun 2024

My controversial skin ingredients that I recommend to my Teen patients.


As a family doctor specialising in skin health, especially in children and teenagers I have my little list of specialist ingredients that I feel confident to prescribe and recommend to my patients.

Let me share a few tricks of the trade:



A great antioxidant that can protect against pollution and free radiacals that can cause DNA based damage to the skin. Used at the correct concentration in children, this super ingredient  will shield the skin from pollution. Teamed up with SPF in the morning and it will increase the sunscreens efficacy for improved protection from UVA and UVB filters.

In adults Vitmain C is used to reduce pigmentations and collagen break down as well as brightening the skin, but this comes at a cost if used incorrectly. Vitamin C can irritate the skin and increase its dryness, especially in younger skin. 


That's why i recommend Troikin's Lightology and SkinEsteem to younger patients to get a safe dose of vitamin C without all the irritation associated with higher concentrations. 

Troikin also uses the most stable Vitamin C on the market (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) in its airless pump packaging ensuring the vitamin C doesn't oxidase or break down and is therefore as effective on the first day of use as it is on the last. .


As your child or teenager grows into puberty and their skin becomes more oily, uneven and prone to acne we need to adjust the skincare routine.

Physical exfoliants that 'sand paper' the skin have no place on your face AT ALL!! However, a chemical exfoliant can reduce bacterial loading on the skin, reduce clogged pores as well as smooth the skin. 

I always recommend a mild exfoliant such as lactic acid or salicylic acid in a face wash. Use twice a week and leave on the face for a few seconds then wash off. This way the chemical doesn't remain on the face for too long to cause irritation or chemical burns (you maybe surprised, but unfortunately it is becoming more and more common to see kids and teens with chemical burns for misusing adult exfoliantion products and severely damaging their skin barrier). 

You can then increase the exfoliation by leaving the was on for longer and longer each year. I would only ever recommend an exfoliating toner or mask if you're in your late 20's or its been designed for children and teens. 

I currently  recommend Wishful’s YoGlow. It has mild AHA’s and enzyme exfoliation and suitable to use twice a week for young skin.


Azelaic acid is a super ingredient but rarely used in both medicine and the cosmetic market place. It is very mild and can be used every morning to reduce inflammation, irritation and redness within the skin. Great for blemishes, acne based redness or rosacea. 

I’m really loving the 10% azelaic acid from the Inkey List. Super at reducing the appearance of redness and blemishes to the skin.


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